River gonna take me
Sing me sweet and sleepy
Sing me sweet and sleepy
All the way back back home
It’s a far gone lullaby
Sung many years ago
Mama, mama, many worlds I’ve come
Since I first left home
Going home, going home
By the waterside I will rest my bones
Listen to the river sing sweet songs
To rock my soul
-“Brokedown Palace,” The Grateful Dead
The Irish poet and philosopher John O’Donohue said that “music is what language would love to be if it could.” There’s something about music that cuts deeper than words alone ever could, down into the deeper territories of the heart where it can do its vital work – whether that’s to bring us to tears, or to draw us up into dancing, or to plant seeds of healing that can take root there and grow, nourishing us over time just as we in turn learn how to tend them through presence and careful attention.
As we travel the winding pathways of our lives, we all need our houses of refuge along the way, those quiet corners of the world that serve as sanctuaries, or as doorways opening out onto bright meadows of repose, restoration, and renewal.
One of those places, for me, is the amazing River House, which sits along a bend in the Cacapon River in the the small West Virginia town of Capon Bridge. According to a description on the website, the River House, is “a community-based arts and music program emphasizing active participation, affordable access, and multi-generational education.”
They offer live musical performances, art classes, community gatherings and open work space. They also regularly feature the work of local visual artists; host sing-a-longs, open mic nights, and community jam sessions; and provide art experiences and arts education for underserved populations in the community, with an added focus on honoring and preserving the traditional arts and crafts and music of the region.
The small in-house café is an added bonus, serving up a range of simple, delicious, homemade food, and a darn good cup of coffee to boot.
All of this is a fair description, and a true one, but for me, the River House is much more than the sum of its parts. Ever since my dad and I first discovered the place, almost four years ago now, it has been, for me, one of those houses of refuge along life’s winding way.
My mom had died in the springtime of that year, just before Easter. Even though it was four years ago now, I still remember how, even far into the fall and winter of that year, my dad and my sisters and I were all still pretty deep in the early days of our grief and grieving over her loss.
I think there’s a popular idea that, when we find ourselves in the valley of death’s long shadow, it dulls our senses, making it harder for us to see the brightness and colors in the world around us. And I suppose there’s some truth to this. But I also remember how that grief stripped away some of my illusions and conventional ways of seeing things. Dumb stuff that had seemed really important beforehand lost some of its hold on me. Petty grievances and passing fads felt suddenly ephemeral and relatively meaningless. But some things came into sharper focus – the wonder of nature, the importance of family, and the deep joy inherent in beauty and art and music.
It was during this period, in the fall after my mom had died, when we discovered the River House, on a day when we had no idea where we were going.
My dad and I were on a road trip. We had headed west from the DC area to Winchester, Virginia, thinking we might find some solace in the natural beauty of the surrounding area. After a morning in town, I remember we had driven west, even though the plan had been to head east. Something was calling, though neither of us knew what it was. The road just seemed to lead that way, west out of town on US-50, and then, after a little while, across the border into West Virginia.
The countryside around there was absolutely beautiful, with the rolling hills and the bright colors of autumn leaves. I remember thinking that my dad – who had connected his phone to the car stereo and was playing a mix of church music, folk songs, and clips from old musicals on YouTube – might be missing out on this chance to bathe in the beauty surrounding us. But just as I was thinking about all that, suddenly my dad looked up from his phone and saw something I missed – a sign that said “coffee” hanging above the porch of an old building on the south side of the road, just before we had reached the bridge that crosses the Cacapon River.
We were passing through Capon Bridge, West Virginia, and apparently that sign advertising coffee was just the sign we had been waiting for – a little less profound and earth-shattering of a sign than I might have wished for, but practical, nonetheless, and inviting enough to prompt us to stop.
The coffee, it turned out, was really good and the people working there were exceptionally warm and friendly. As it turned out, there was a concert later that night and we decided, after setting off for an afternoon hike, to come back for dinner and an evening of live music.
I hope I never forget that day and our first introduction to the River House.
The beauty of the natural landscape, hiking to the top of a nearby mountain with my dad and looking out over the rolling hills of West Virginia, followed by the sweet melodies and close harmonies on the small stage at the River House later that evening were, in some real sense, the beginning of my own long road of healing following my mom’s death. The music washed over me, putting a smile on my face and filling my spirit with gladness in the midst of grief.
The whole experience was a gift. I can feel nothing but gratitude for it, and ever since that first visit, the place has had a special meaning for both my dad and me.
We had headed into West Virginia, on that afternoon four years ago, in search of a measure of solace, but we received something more, something that we hadn’t expected.
The joy in the music, the warmth of the people we met at the River House, the simple goodness in the food and the coffee and the whole atmosphere – it was healing, and nourishing in the truest sense, and it meant the world to us. My mom was a great pianist and singer and all her life a lover of music, and I know she would have loved it there, too.
So that was my first visit to the River House. I’ve been back several times since, always with my dad, and it has continued to carve out a niche in my heart and in the landscape of my soul.
No doubt I romanticize the place a bit too much. It’s easy when you only stop by for an evening or two a few times a year. I’m sure the folks who work and volunteer there – and those who come regularly for art classes, concerts, and other community events – have their disagreements, their own hopes and fears and anxieties, and live lives that are normally just as mundane as mine.
But whenever I’m there, and the music starts on the River House stage, all that drops away, and there seems to be nothing wrong in the world that cannot be made right, nothing terrible that cannot be transfigured at last through beauty and kindness and laughter and hope and the warm embrace of community.
It’s silly, but the River House feels to me a bit like a kind of Brigadoon – a place that emerges periodically from the mist, a mystical doorway of music, hospitality, fresh coffee and good food leading into another dimension that somehow seems a little kinder, gentler, and friendlier than our own.
Of course, I know intellectually that the River House is still there even when I’m not traveling through Capon Bridge. But they seem to have created a magic so unique and singular that it’s sometimes hard to imagine that the place could exist permanently in the same reality I inhabit day-in and day-out, the one I read about in the news and fret about anxiously while lying in bed at night, wondering and worrying about what the future might hold.
It’s the kind of place where you feel like you really can drop your defenses for a moment, stop all your useless worrying, and just listen to the music of the river, singing its sweet, ancient songs of hope and healing.
The song at the River House tonight is an old one, all about the great journeys of our lives, and about a love so strong — like the love of a mother, or a father — that even death can’t take it away from us. In the song, the road is sometimes long, and the way ahead is often dark. But there are adventures waiting, too, and new friends to be made, and amazing sights to see around every bend.
Wherever the way may lead from here, wherever the waters may flow, I take solace and find strength in the river’s sweet song, and find that I am perpetually made ready for the journey, forever tuned and primed to lend my voice once more to that great and wondrous hymn of praise.
Photo Credit: Nitish Kadam on Unsplash